NEW YORK CITY - ARIANA AFGHAN RESTAURANT REVIEW

By Guest Blogger:   Jason Fuges

I fell in love with Afghan food thanks to Humaira’s brother Waheed Ghilzai. He introduced me to authentic Afghan cooking when I lived in the Bay Area. When I moved to New York City I was nervous that I wouldn’t have a “go-to” place for Afghan food. I couldn't have lucked out more when I found Ariana Afghan Kebab House, a dynamite restaurant that is just a few blocks from my apartment in Hell’s Kitchen.  

Everything that I've eaten at Ariana has gotten my stamp of approval, as well as praise from Waheed.  I’ve enjoyed delicious dumplings (aushak) as well as Afghanistan’s famous pumpkin dish (borani kadoo)  and rice with lamb and chicken (qabli palau).  Since I don’t cook, whenever I throw a dinner party, I always insist on ordering from Ariana. I've done this multiple times and my guests are always deliriously happy. 

On top of the food, Rafi, the owner is fantastic. He has always been helpful with ordering and just has a great, relaxed demeanor about him. It really adds to the atmosphere. Be aware that there is another Afghan restaurant nearby that doesn’t measure up to Ariana.  I’ve only been there once, and perhaps it was an off night, but since then I always opt for Ariana when I need my Afghan fix. They have never disappointed!

Ariana Afghan Kebab House is located on 9th Avenue between 52nd and 53rd street.  They also have a fantastic website:  http://www.ariananyc.com/.

2010-10-12 14.00.59

Rafi, the owner of Ariana Afghan Kebab House

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COOL AS A CUCUMBER - YOGURT AND MINT DIP

By Humaira

As a fifth grader in Kabul I had an allowance of one Afghani per day to buy a snack. Contrary to popular misconception, the Afghani doesn’t refer to a person, but to Afghanistan’s currency. One Afghani was worth about 10 cents at the time.

All my friends would use their allowance to buy special treats from the school canteen, but I would stop at the vegetable store on the way to school to purchase the largest cucumber I could afford. With school in session from March through November, the crunchy cucumbers with the small seeds had a cooling effect on me through the hot summer months -- I so looked forward to recess.In retrospect I must have been a strange child to pick a cucumber over candy, but I won’t go into self analysis in this posting.

Persian cucumbers remind me of the wonderful cucumbers I used to covet as a child. They are thin, small and reliably crunchy. Peeled and cut into slivers they can be a great snack, a fine addition to a veggie platter and a healthy part of a sack lunch. My kids love them.

Previously I could only find Persian cucumbers at Afghan or Persian grocery stores, but now Trader Joe’s and some larger grocery stores carry them. Here is a recipe for an Afghan appetizer I created and brought to a friend’s party. There are few appetizers in the Afghan cuisine.I serve this one with pita chips. It also makes a nice side dish.

Yogurt, Cucumber and Mint Dip

1 cup plain yogurt

2 Persian cucumbers, roughly chopped

½ tsp. Kosher salt

½ tsp. dried mind or 2 tsp. fresh mint

Pinch of dried, ground garlic

Mix all of the ingredients in a medium bowl and stir thoroughly. Serve with pita chips, sambosas or bolani.

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GULPEA (GULPI)|AFGHAN CAULIFLOWER CURRY

By Humaira

My daugthers and I enjoy wandering around the various farmer's markets in San Francisco and tasting fresh cheese, wholesome jams and whatever the stands are offering.  I walk away with arms full of gorgeous vegetables and when I get home I wonder what was I thinking in purchasing five bunches of bok choy and two heads of cauliflower.  I think farmer's markets rely on impulse purchases by people like myself and my daughters who get very excited about seeing the colorful stands and the thought of trying something new and exciting.

So, if you have a head of cauliflower that you don't know what to do with, give this recipe of Gulpea a try.  You will be surprised by it's flavors and it will likely be a hit with your kids.

According to my friend Ghulam Qader Popal, whom I consider an expert on Afghanistan, cauliflower originated in the Mediterranean, traveling from Portugal through the Indian Subcontinent and landing in Jalalabad, a city in eastern Afghanistan. It’s easy to see the Indian culinary influence in this recipe. Almost the entire supply of Gulpea still comes from mild-weathered Jalalabad. But growers can also be found in Qunduz, Helmand and Kandahar Province. The most lucrative farming product in these regions, of course, remains the poppy seed.

That bit of trivia aside, the end result of this cauliflower is a delicious and easy dish which I hope you will try. Gulpea can also be made with beef or lamb but in this post I am sharing the vegetarian version which I feel has the best flavor.  Now I have to find a recipe for my 3 pounds of fava beans.

Cauliflower comes in different colors and flavors - we love them all.

 Tender Afghan Cauliflower Curry

Qorma e Gulpea

3 tbsp. olive oil

2 medium onions, pureed in a food processor or finely chopped

6 cloves garlic, pureed in a food processor or finely chopped

1 tbsp. fresh ginger, minced (optional)

1 tsp. ground curry

1 tsp. ground coriander

1 tsp. ground turmeric

1 tsp. salt

¼ cup tomato sauce

1/2 cup vegetable or chicken broth

1/2 tsp. ground black pepper

1 head cauliflower, washed, stem removed, cut into large pieces

Heat the olive oil over medium-high heat in a large, heavy-bottom pot. Add the onions and brown for about 10 minutes until golden brown. Add the garlic and ginger, cook for an additional 2 minutes.  Add all the remaining ingredients except the cauliflower.Stir well and simmer for about 8 minutes until the liquid reduces and you have a thick, oniony sauce.

Add the cauliflower and stir until the sauce covers all the pieces of the cauliflower.  If you feel you don't have enough sauce to coat the cauliflower, add another 1/4 cup of broth.

Put the lid on the pot, cook on low for 20 to 30 minutes until the gulpea can be easily pierced by a fork, stirring every 5 minutes. Remove the lid and cook uncovered for another 5 minutes to allow the sauce to reduce. The cooking time will vary but you want the result to be fork-tender, but not mushy.

Serve with nan, pit bread, or challaw, the Afghan white rice. A dollop of plain yogurt makes a heavenly addition.

Serves 4

079

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